Wednesday, 28 July 2010

feng shui-ing the shit out of my shit; lessons learnt in packing.


Salvador Dali

“keepers of private notebooks are a different breed altogether, lonely and resistant rearrangers of things, anxious malcontents, children afflicted apparently at birth with some presentiment of loss.”

- joan didion

“I think I’ve just figured out why you’re always packing, unpacking and repacking,” somebody once said to me, “it’s because there is so much chaos inside your head that you cannot conceivably order, so you psychotically arrange and rearrange all the tangible things within your reach…and you delude yourself into believing that what you are actually doing is somehow miraculously folding up all of your thoughts and packing them away into neat little drawers and labeled boxes. Well let me tell you something darlin’, pack away all you want, feng shui the shit out of your shit, but you, will still, always, have chaos in your head.”

He was a very intelligent man—perhaps one of the most intelligent I have ever met—so I valued his analysis, I wholly agreed with it, understood it, believed it, took it to heart…but that didn’t change much. I still obsessively pack, unpack, repack and rearrange whatever and whenever I can. (When I can’t, like when I’m sitting in somebody else’s house, I do it anyway in my head. All my time spent indoors is essentially one long exercise in virtual reupholstering). And I still believe I am somehow putting my thoughts into order. Or at least axiomatically approaching order. And regardless of whether I succeed in inching towards order, I do learn something each time. So after a weekend of packing, moving and unpacking here are some things I learned. In, of course, something like order.

1. I have a lot of shit. (Somehow this is always the first realization and it always seems to come at the wrong time—as in, after you’ve acquired it, when you need to carry it, not while you’re contemplating buying it and cooing over just how pretty it is!)

2. Bin liners are my new best friends.

3. Some half-a-dozen bin liners later, I still have a lot of shit.

4. So far, so good, lessons being learned, but truth be told, the moment I’m settled and unpacked, the first thing I’m probably going to do, is go out and get more shit.

5. (Prophecy fulfilled. I did in fact, go out and get more shit. Like a big clothing rack. But I carried and assembled it all on my own which was a revelation in itself).

6. And hangers. On a side note, nobody in London seems to know what clothes hangers are. CLOOOO-THESSSS HAAANNNGGGG-ERRS. Pantomiming taking off your clothes and hanging them really doesn’t help. In one shop, a guy nodded and brought me clothes pegs. Not bad I thought…close enough, they technically do “hang clothes.” But in another, get this, he brought me a box of firelighter cubes. Sure, I’ll say it again, firelighter cubes. Erm, sorry, but what about my whole song and dance of taking off my clothes and hanging them up suggested to you that I wanted to set anything on fire?

7. Is this some cosmic sign telling me to really purge myself of my belongings?

8. And on that note…It’s all well and good that I have a lot of notebooks, and boxes, and postcards, but lighters? I have a lot of lighters. Like a lot a lot. What can I say? The only thing worse than not having a cigarette is having one and not having a lighter.

9. That, and obviously, I’m rather forgetful. Or my memory can’t keep up with my nicotine addiction.

10. I did consider stopping smoking. I even purposefully walked down the whole Nicorette aisle at the pharmacy. Nicorette gum is £18!?!??! It’s chewing gum for chrissakes! Screw that. That’s three packets of cigarettes. (Besides, buying Nicorette gum would technically fall under the category of “acquiring new shit.” And I’m totally trying not to do that.)

11. Packing lends itself generously to positive ideas like, stopping smoking, or feasible positive ideas like giving things away. I did. A lot of things. For example, some Oxfam shop now has a sizeable collection of designer shopping bags. Just think…you can go to Oxfam and buy a £5 lamp, and they’ll put it in an Agent Provocateur shopping bag! That’s nice, no?

12. And speaking of agents, I think that in a previous life I was a member of the French Resistance. I have not one, not two, but four berets. And I don’t recall buying any of them. Its as if they mysteriously appeared in my wardrobe as some persistent totem of my previous allegiances. (This thought stopped me from donating them to charity).

13. Before joining the resistance, I must have been a zookeeper. A good one at that…for I was obviously awarded with the occasional bonus of some animals to take home and skin. What remains from that life: a crocodile bag, a crocodile belt, snakeskin heels, snakeskin flats, a snakeskin clutch, a rabbit fur hat, a fox collar (head, eyes and tail included!), a coat with a fox collar, a sheepskin waistcoat, sheepskin boots, an ostrich wallet, an ivory bracelet, and one made of green sting ray leather. Sting ray! Obviously, I didn’t give any of this away either. What, I don’t want to offend anybody. Or inflict on someone the trauma of getting shouted at on the tube! “I can assure you that that fox would be much better off alive than sitting there as a trophy around your neck!” somebody once chastised me. Fox you lady, and besides, it was my grandmother’s so I’m sure the poor thing would long be dead by now anyhow.

14. Some things are easier to let go of than others. Turns out disposing of boyfriends is a lot easier than disposing of the stuff you collect from or with them…

15. I think there’s something in this whole feng shui business. Something about our things and how they reflect who we are. And also something in the saying “save the best for last.” It didn’t occur to me until I had already completely packed and moved out and gathered the very last of my belongings…it didn’t occur to me until after I had crossed several streets…and inspired several intriguing glances…it didn’t occur to me that I was walking through the city of London with a pillow and a champagne bucket. What that says about me I’m not sure, but I think I like it.

Wednesday, 30 June 2010

"it's not about the blue dress!" and other things PMS is and isn't about.


"From the moment I was six I felt sexy. And let me tell you it was hell, sheer hell, waiting to do something about it."

- Bette Davis


“It’s not about the blue dress!” I belted for about the seventh time. (Belting is the best tone for fury I find, for unlike screaming, belting is just contained enough for it to be dangerously explosive). I was beginning to sound like one of those voice-coaching exercises in emphasis they make you do in acting school. “It’s not about the blue dress!” “It’s not about the blue dress.” “It’s not about the blue dress.” “It’s not about the blue dress.” “It’s not about the blue dress!” “It’s not about the blue dress!” And when all those failed, I even tried throwing in some extra syllables. “It’s not about the BA-LOO-OUE DA-RESS!” I’m certain that every person who lives on the street where I gave this performance yesterday, and had their windows open (which they surely did, as it was swelteringly hot—even for a short blue dress!) has these words ringing in their mind today…like an annoyingly overplayed radio jingle that simply refuses to go away. But as I stood in the middle of the street yesterday, performing my operatic rendition of the Blue Dress, flapping my hands about in hysteria, stomping my delicate ballerina flats in a manner far from delicate or balletic, and all this to the dramatic percussion rhythm provided by my swishing and clanging gold chain belt (which, yes, hung from my blue dress!)—the fact that I was perhaps disturbing the neighbors, or even that I was causing a scene, did not seem in the slightest bit unusual, inappropriate, or dramatic to me. I was PMSing. And PMS is the abbreviated version of the lengthy medical term which in laymen’s terms, or for our purposes here, can be simply reduced to DRAMA.

***

The reason “It’s not about the blue dress,” or “it’s not about the groceries,” or it’s not about any of the other little things people may fight about…is because during PMS, nothing can only ever be about something. For that something becomes inextricably woven to countless other somethings, moments, places, people, feelings, thoughts, perceptions. Like a snowball rolling down a hill that turns into an avalanche…the little insignificant thing we are fighting over, be it a dress, a word or a bottle of water…becomes a symbol, cause and effect of something so much greater. Of me, of you, of us in general, of my childhood, my sex life, my career, of our relationship, of all relationships, of the history of the world, the meaning of life, of all joy or destruction, all wars, and if you carry through with this train of thought, you will invariably come to the conclusion that this ba-loo-oue da-ress is, in fact, the symbol of the universe. So, in actual fact, me picking a little fight with you over it is a thoughtful consideration on my part, not an overreaction. Things. Could. Be. Worse.

***

Yesterday, I told my mother I was writing a blog about PMS and asked her if she had any thoughts or sentiments on the topic. And she said, “all I can remember is that I always used to get a pimple right in the middle of my nose!” Think about that for a moment. Over thirty years of periods, and pads, and PMSing, and lord only knows what quantity of blood, bloating and blue dresses, and all she can remember is that tiny little spot. That pimple clearly wasn’t only right in the middle of her nose. It was in the middle of everything. It was the axis upon which the world would turn, or cease to turn, once a month for over thirty years. It erected itself as a proud, beaming statue between herself and her mirror, (countless mirrors which she surely looked in all day long), herself and anyone she came into contact with, herself and life, itself. That pimple, poor thing, was probably blamed for just about anything, from a lost earring to a lost fiancée, a dropped bag of groceries to a broken crystal vase. Oh, that’s the other thing about PMS—it can make you very clumsy. Apparently, Italians, Italian men to be precise, believe that if a woman is clumsy, or drops something in front of a man, she is hiding something from him. (Arguably, an Italian man, vase dropped or not, will always think his woman is hiding something from him, and probably only because he is hiding something from her, but let’s not get into that right now). But when it comes to PMS, she is hiding something. Besides the pimple she tries desperately to conceal, there are dozens of other physiological and psychological things she is hiding, because if she didn’t, the universe, remember, the entire universe, would spontaneously combust.

***

Any number of physiological changes can occur in a woman during PMS. Her breasts might get firmer, larger and more painful. (But more sensitive too, which can sometimes be a good thing). Her skin can break out. (Bad thing). Her stomach, back, head, earlobe or just about any other part of her body can ache, and more often than not, it is some combination of these. Her hair can curl, or straighten, or behave in any other unusual way that makes it completely unmanageable and definitely makes for not one but several, bad hair days. She can become more sensitive to smells and certain foods, repulsed by some and addicted to others. (Yoghurt and gherkins are big ones, and no, not together). Her stomach can bloat—in fact her entire body can bloat from water retention, making her a whole dress size larger. Yep, goodbye skinny jeans. Because of this, or not because of this, she can become lethargic and fatigued, desperate for any excuse to not get out of bed, and even one single drop of rain will sometimes do. And, as if that’s not enough, she can become incredibly, insanely, and unstoppably, aroused. (Good though it may seem, this can also be a bad thing). In fact, on closer look at these symptoms, one might say that PMS is a mini, or 7-day pregnancy. Except without the promise of a little gift to come, without all the showers and shopping, without the belly that might get someone to give up their seat on the bus. There’s an idea. Those signs that read “Seating reserved for the elderly, disabled, or less able to stand,” should include “women suffering from the tragedies of PMS.”

***

But these physiological changes, or symptoms, if you will, are still nothing in comparison to the psychological and emotional ones, those indescribable and undiagnosable terrors. There are several pills or accessories that can remedy the break-outs, the pain, or the water retention, and indeed we make good use of them and manage, for the most part to keep on keeping. But unfortunately, there is no hat to cover the unmanageable, knotty mop of thoughts that accumulate, no elastic “dress” for the heart that might give room to the bloating of emotion and sentiment, no pill to pop to alleviate the feeling that the apocalypse has indeed, finally, arrived. Instead, it all stays contained and restrained in a mind, heart and body that suddenly seem way to small to carry it all. And at the faintest indication of a possible EXIT, release, or outlet, it explodes. “It’s not about the blue dress!” Often times, it is more like a series of minor explosions.

***

A man I was dating once said to me, “but I don’t understand, you are so intelligent! Can’t you think or rationalize your way out of this one?” Think my body out of PMS and into submission? Believe me, I have tried. Perhaps I am not that intelligent after all. The best I can do is partly acknowledge that I’m PMSing…and that all the little things that are making my blood boil (no pun intended) probably wouldn’t in normal circumstances, and probably won’t next week, but unfortunately that’s as far as it goes. This acknowledgement doesn’t change much. I might have the “intelligence” to add “I’m sorry, I’m PMSing,” as an encore to my tantrums, but the tantrums still happen. The show, must always, go on.

***

As I was stormed off finally, if for no other reason than because I ran out of emphatic ways to say that phrase, and sat down in the park to ponder these cycles of joy and disaster…these overtures and encores…and the cathartic embers slowly turned to ashes…I looked down at my blue dress and said, “I’m disappointed in you, you know, I expected more.” All the excitement I had felt when I bought it, when I put it on that day, all the promise it held for showers of compliments and a fabulous night out, were gone. If I could, I probably would have gone to return it right away. “Hello, I’d like to return this dress please, it didn’t quite live up to my expectations.” And then, I began thinking about disappointment and expectations. Isn’t that what periods are? Simply the tears of disappointed ovaries and eggs unfertilized? I know they don’t wear any, but try to put yourself in an ovary’s shoes for a moment. Ovaries are the icons, the totems, the presidents of expectation. Their entire raison d’être and definitive verb, is to expect. From the very moment they come into being this is their calling. For the first eleven years or so, they wait patiently to be able to exercise it. And then they begin to pursue it with vigour, working and performing tirelessly every month in the hope of being put to use, with the greatest expectations to create. Of course, in most cases, they are forced to wait another 5, 6, 10 years, (no judgment!) before this opportunity for procreation (read: sex) even presents itself. And then, in many cases, even when all the stars and sperms are aligned, we often fail to fulfill their expectations. (In fact we habitually choose to deliberately sabotage them). So think that every single month we don’t get pregnant, whether it be ten, fifteen or twenty years since we became ready to, think, just think how our ovaries feel. Months and years go by and layers of expectation and disappointment heap up. We are often times ready to quit a job, or get a divorce, or even end our own lives when things don’t live up to our expectations, when our toils and efforts pass unnoticed, when our homes or investments collapse. And yet, our ovaries continue to live, to work, to expect and invest, once a month, like the most loyal of soldiers, while we, pardon my French, continue to fuck them over. So you know what? Allow them their little tantrum once in a while. They more than deserve it. And you know what else? Give them a fucking round of applause. (Sorry, I'm PMSing).

Thursday, 15 April 2010

safarESEARCH; a master of research goes on safari.

Filling out my application for a Botswana visa, under “Reasons for Travel” I write “Tourism/Safari.” The visa officer reads through my application and says, “You are going on safari?” I nod. “So you like animals?” he then asks with all the gravity that would imply this is a prerequisite to get in the country. “Yes, love ‘em,” I exaggerate. (Who knows, maybe it is a prerequisite). “What do you do?” he asks me. To spare both him and me from this conversation, I tell him I’m a student, in London. “Ah, what do you study?” Uh-oh. “I’m doing a Master of Research in Humanities and Cultural Studies.” In the short silence that follows I wonder why I didn’t just say mathematics, while his face is overcome by various expressions all of which say “huh?” “Ahhhh,” he then proudly concludes, “now I see why you like animals.” What gave that away I wonder, “cultural,” or “humanities?”

***

College counselors are quite a daft bunch really. They’ll make you memorize words for the SAT, walk you through countless personality and career quizzes that are supposed to help you figure out (at the age of 18) what you want to do for the rest of your life, and then they’ll read through the “Picking a College” guide with you asking you whether you prefer east or west coast, snow or sunshine, jocks or hippies. All of this when they really should just give you one tip: pick a degree with a simple title. Or one that you won’t mind explaining for the rest of your life, to visa officers, at dinner parties, and chatty old ladies in the bank queue. Unlike the visa officer who concluded that my degree inspired or explained my love for animals, the chatty old lady might conclude you’d make a good wife. What about “humanities” or “cultural studies” suggests that I crochet doilies? (Coincidentally, or not, I do own a copy of Crocheting for Dummies. Don’t ask, I think I was trying to stop drinking at the time. Need I elaborate on how that went?)

***

When you tell people you have a degree in Humanities and Cultural studies, they will inevitably conclude one of three things. (Well three things besides that you like animals). One—that you’re really smart. Maybe my (fake) glasses already suggest this, but I think it’s the big words that give it away. Truth be told, I don’t really know what the “official” way to define what I studied is. I usually just give the usually vague string of answers, art, architecture, philosophy, literature, etc. But more importantly, I give myself a pat on the back when I manage to say the entire title of my degree without getting tongue-tied. Especially after my third glass of champagne. If you can do that, you’ve got to be smart. (Or, an experienced drunk? Let’s stick to the first option). Next, they may conclude that you’re incredibly “cultured,” as in, that you go to the opera “and all that stuff.” Which, coincidentally, I do, whenever I can, but this doesn’t have anything to do with my degree. Its not like they took us on fieldtrips to the theatre, much to my dismay. (In all fairness, this is what I thought I was signing up for—a Master’s degree in London’s West End.) And though I did get a few free cocktails at the TATE, that was more or less it. That and a professor or two hitting on me. Not sure where that falls, but I’m pretty sure it doesn’t come under “culture.” And the third thing they might assume, is that you’re a people person. Fair enough, I did just say “humanities,” and that’s a closer guess than animals to be sure, but I wouldn’t call myself a people person. In fact anyone who chooses to devote a year of their life to research—to books and libraries—is probably not a people person. You can’t like people if they’ve managed to get the one copy of the library book you need before you. It just doesn’t work.

***

That said, I do have a general, vague, interest in people—from a distance that is. Whenever my father asks me why I need not one, but two degrees, to be a waitress, I tell him I’m making intellectual, and very important observations on people, and that I will one day get a very good book out of all of it. (Or at least a date!) Thanks to him, I don’t need the £6-an-hour (or whatever it is, I don’t even ask), that I’m earning—but I do love the idea of being paid to people watch. I love to wonder what is going on in people’s lives, I love to imagine what they were thinking that morning when they put those shoes on, I love to imagine whose bed they found those shoes under moments earlier...

***

And so, having been duly granted my visa for Botswana (whether on account of my love for animals or not), I headed off on safari and did what I do best—people watched. And never before has my “shoe question” been more relevant. Seriously, what are safari tourists thinking when they put those shoes on, and that outfit?! I don’t get the whole head-to-toe-khaki thing. Those animals have been standing still for decades watching safari vehicles come by. Its not like they’re going to run away at the sight of a white shirt. (Trust me, I do after all, have a Master's in a love for animals!). Besides, its not like you’re going to be chasing the animals for chrissakes! All you’re doing, rather decadently, is sipping on G&Ts and watching them go by. A ballgown and white gloves would work just fine too. (Ok, even I don’t go to this extreme, but I’m never above a little pearl necklace or Hermes scarf to top off my outfit). And, ps, if “camouflage” is what you’re going for—a two-foot zoom lens probably isn’t the way to go. If anything, that’s what would scare an elephant away—the poor thing never imagined something larger than its penis existed! Interestingly, just as the saying goes that there is more drama backstage than onstage, I’d venture to propose there are more wild instincts at play within the safari jeep than outside it. What else are all those men with their zoom lenses doing but competing for who has the biggest ‘one’?

***

Luckily, being a local, I manage to experience the “luxury”—if you can call it that—of safari, at a reasonable cost. But its incredible how much money foreigners spend on the whole “experience.” Think of it, the flights, (the vaccinations!), the accommodation, those cameras (read: egos), and (need I mention them again?) those outfits! Whoever came up with those pooey outfits is, pun intended, rolling in it. Not to mention that upon their arrival at the 5-star lodge, some sly guide has probably told them that tipping is the way to go in this country, so they go through dropping twenties at every stop thinking the job wouldn’t get done otherwise. Look, I am after all a waitress, so more than anyone, I’m all for tipping. But when you’re paying thousands of dollars a night for your accommodation, you really don’t need to tip housekeeping for bringing you fresh towels. Or your game drive guide. Yes, its nice to, and I sometimes do…but part of the reason you’re paying those astronomical prices is because they’re all inclusive—driver, towels, G&Ts and all.

***

Anyway, I don’t really care how much money people spend or how they choose to spend it, that’s their own business. Considering my love of Hermes and…well, let me not even get started on that list…I’m really not one to talk. What gets me is that they pay for allllll of this and more, when actually, all they really want to see is a lion. Forgive me for asking the obvious question, but couldn’t ya just go to the zoo? The minute you pile into a safari jeep with all the pairs of khaki-clad, zoom-toting, mountain-climbing-boot-wearing Germans, Americans and Spaniards you’re going to make boring small-talk with for the next two hours, someone is bound to turn to the driver and say, “Albert, vil ve see ze lions today?” Poor Albert has already been driving them around for two days, pulling every possible bit of mildly interesting animal trivia out of his ass to keep them engaged, explaining gestation periods and courting rituals of every bird, bee and buffalo they spot, and yet all they’re really after is a lion. One single lion would make the entire trip worthwhile. Can I make another obvious suggestion and recommend the musical The Lion King? He may not be real, but at least (for only $99.99!) you’re guaranteed to see him, centerstage. The only downside besides him not being real is that you wont be able to whip out your $5,000 Nikon and take a picture of him. But I’m sure they sell pictures at the giftshop on your way out.

***

The saddest thing about all of this is that for some reason, these unknowing tourists expect the amount of dollars they spend to directly correlate to the guarantee of what they will see. As if more zeroes means more lions. I’ll let you in on a little secret, it doesn’t matter how much you tip Albert, he just cannot make the lions appear! He’s a game drive guide for god’s sake, not a magician, or a circus tamer. Which is why everyone goes to Kruger National Park these days. Everyone. Even, VOGUE tells me, Ivanka Trump! Need I make the obvious guess here that Kruger is probably the most expensive safari you can go on? On my most recent trip, we sat around dinner one night, sharing game drive stories with the other guests at the lodge, as you do, and no one seemed to have any exciting stories to tell. Any exciting local stories that is. “Oh, our game drive was lovely today but we didn’t see any cats. Its ok, though, we saw them at Kruger.” Kruger Shmuger. Even though I’ve been on countless safaris in my life, I always see and learn something new and exciting (though perhaps its just the same information all the time, but my humanities mind cant retain any of it). For example, they say the wildebeast in Livingstone National Park are the only animals who have an actual predator in the park, despite the fact that there are no cats. Apparently there is some type of butterfly, or moth, (don’t quote me, I’m telling the story as I remember it!) that lays eggs in the animal’s nostrils, and when they become larvae, or caterpillars, whatever, they crawl up to the animal’s brain and begin to eat it! This causes the animal to…first, yes, go mad and run around in circles (much in the same way our indecisions might, for example?), and then die. Sad story, but fascinating no? Now, where can I get some of those little suckers to put up those annoying tourists’ noses!?

***

Sorry, that was mean. I don’t really want to kill them, I don’t even really hate them, I just find them annoying. They’re the outdoor equivalent of those suckers in the library who take your book! (You wanted proof that I’m not a people person?) But what that trip did get me thinking was, whatever happened to exploration? As I write this, I glance to the left of my screen and notice an internet window opened, at the top of which reads “Safari.” Surely there’s a reason why Apple chose not to name their internet browser Explorer like Windows, and went for Safari instead. It’s the same thing, right? Isn’t a safari supposed to be an exploration? A free, directionless, expectation-less roam through a national park where you never know what you’ll come across? Maybe a lion, maybe a creature going mad and running around in circles, maybe elephants fornicating. (Sorry to be so clinical, but I just love that word. Let me say it again, fornicating). Granted, this last one is definitely worth seeing. And probably one you won’t find in a zoo or Disney musical. Sorry. But sometimes you don’t see any of these things…sometimes its just a lilac breasted roller…or a carmine bee-eater…tiny little birds perched on the branch of a tree…that only inspire you to wish you had a bigger one—zoom, that is. But listen to the calls of those birds, or even just their names…isn’t there something blissfully poetic in this too? (There must be, for there is no other way I would have remembered their names. In case it isn’t obvious, I’m not a bird person either.)

***

Its funny how whenever I spew out the title of my degree people choose either to focus on the “humanities” or “cultural studies” part…nobody ever rests on research. But that is what I am, a Master of Research. And the most important lesson in research is that the book you are looking for is usually right next to the one you thought you were looking for. Which not only says that we never really know what we’re looking for, but that we shouldn’t ever aim to know what we’re looking for; you can’t explore with expectations. So it is, I imagine, with all explorations, safaris included. Don’t go on a game drive in search of a lion. Its about the ride…its about what happens along the way. Doesn’t abandoning ourselves to the wilderness of chance offer us the very chance to experience the wild?

***

I’ll pause there for a moment to raise the second most important lesson in research. When you can’t make it to the library, Google will do. One of my favourite things to do is apply this “abandonment of expectation” to Google. To not look for anything specific, but let Google, with its fabulous suggestions and guesses, lead me on. If you haven’t ever done this, you should. When you type the word “why” into google and wait a moment—it will give you some suggestions. I’m not entirely sure, but I imagine these are the most popularly searched questions. Today, the top hit is “why can’t I own a Canadian?” Erm, (wow!) clearly, because with your intellect you shouldn’t be granted possession of anything, let alone anyone. Other winners include your typical seven-year-old questions such as “why is the sky blue?” and “why do cats purr?” and my all-time favourite of today, “why is my poop green?” I don’t know dude, but if I were you I wouldn’t be sitting in front of my laptop, I’d be well on my way to the doctor. Under “how,” the top hits are “how to solve a rubix cube” and “how I met your mother”—which may be the title of a movie or something, but I do like the idea that someone is asking Google to answer for their MILFing! Under “when,” there is of course “when in Rome,” because I’m sure countless people hear that expression and have no idea what it means, and then coming in close behind that is, “when will I die?”

***

Wow. Maybe technology really has made amazing advances and will soon be able to answer all our questions. Or maybe our computers have just gotten into the wrong (or seven-year-old) hands. But if there is something funny or quaintly naïve in these questions, there is also something very wrong in them. Googling “how to solve a rubix cube” defeats the purpose moron! Have we become intolerant of uncertainty? Are we no different to those tourists who ask poor Albert if they will see lions today? Why are we so desperate to know what will be? Whatever happened to the days of que será será? Can’t we just sit down with the rubix cube of life and figure it out as we go along? And God forbid, take pleasure in the puzzle? It seems not. Then again, what do I know? All I have is a degree in a love for animals…

Saturday, 13 March 2010

of whores and horses; further contemplations on writing...


Whenever people ask me if I speak any of the local Zambian languages, I usually avoid the long complicated answer that is an autobiography of my childhood and say I only know three words: Osa donsa maningi! This means “Don’t pull too much!” This response has raised quite its fair share of eyebrows, especially when told to a group of Zambian men, who can’t help but wonder how, or why I know these words, these three words in particular. It is not what you think. Tsk! Because I used to own a mad horse, who was mad when I was on him, and madder when I wasn’t (need I emphasize he was a him?), and who once hospitalized his groom following a grandiose display of his ego—these became the only three words I needed to know. When a horse acts up, be it out of fear or mischief, in a moment of panic, most people would follow their first instinct and pull tighter. But man’s reason against horse’s madness is a tempestuous fray whose outcome and consequence neither horse nor man can categorically foresee. So for both the horse’s sake and the man’s, and the stable door’s for that matter, the groom holding him should always be jolted out of his panic and screamingly reminded: osa donsa maningi! (Because of countless such experiences, I seem to not know how to say these words, only to shout them). And so, pair after pair of broken reins, and many osa donsas later, we all eventually learned, whether on him or not, just to let go. It is interesting that in a sport so defined and judged by control, sometimes the only command you need is to let go of it.

The human race has long deluded itself into believing that equestrianism is about man’s control over beast, and has over centuries developed both countless tools and skills that might aid him in attaining it. But when man and horse come together—two creatures, by nature, both precarious in their own right, control too, becomes a slippery and fragile notion. Sometimes, with horses, something as small as the momentary fluttering of bird, or rustling of a plastic bag—and not only are there a lot of those in Zambia, but they seem to always be RED and YELLOW, damn Shoprite!— is enough to put all those years of training and all those skills helplessly out of use, and leave you with only three that might work: let go, stay calm, and pray. Here, the natural question is, how do you stay calm, and its all too natural answer is that you don’t. You fake it. What you sign up for every time you a mount a horse is a twisted mind game; he knows he’s ultimately in control, and on occasion chooses to remind you of this—and while little you also knows he’s in control, you can’t let him know you know it.

Horses are often regarded by some as stupid creatures, not only because running away from a plastic bag is generally considered a feat of idiocy, but because an animal that willingly subscribes to the slavish fate of having something on top of it for half of its lifetime is, and could only be, by definition, stupid. But the truth is, the horse is as intelligent as it is wild, for it knows that the weight of the creature on its back is but a feather in comparison to the weight of his power to psychologically get on top. If and when it happens, as it often does, that he is literally on top, because you are lying on the ground next to him—unless it was an accident, it is only because you refused to play the game. And as far as their fear of plastic bags or birds is concerned, let us not hastily forget that endless lexicon of man’s phobias, including amathophobia (fear of dust), chronomentrophobia (fear of clocks), papyrophobia (fear of paper), to name but a few. (For a longer list, please visit, http://phobialist.com - no kidding!) Why are we so willing to fear horses (equinophobia), or hate them (would this be misequinism?) for their “madness,” and yet so willing to forgive our own?

Which brings me back to the topic of my madness—writing. As with the equestrian discipline, in the writing one too, we have developed the tools and training that lead us to believe we have control. That is to say that, words, if you have them and know how to use them, allow you to say whatever you want and however you want. And this we have certainly done; from their foundation, we have built letters, laws and entire constitutions—we have demonstrated, as does the graceful dressage rider, that we have mastered control. But beautiful, challenging and rewarding as dressage can be, sometimes the best rides are the ones where you let go. And the best riders the ones who are capable of doing so. Equestrianism is not about man’s mastery of control over beast—it is about man’s mastery of rapport with beast, a relationship of mutual exchange, learning and trust, whose fulfillment becomes clearest when the control becomes blurriest, and galloping along wildly, rider strangely becomes beast. And so it is with stories. The greatest documents are written by men who have the greatest control over their words, but the greatest stories are written by ones who can look their control of words fiercely in the eye, and shout: Osa donsa maningi!

So it is, that my writing career began. In the first (and only) writing class I ever took, one in which thirty students took home the vague instructions to write about this or that, in this or that way, and weekly returned with their pieces to read them aloud and comment, I very quickly decided that I didn’t want to blend into the boring line of perfectly groomed and gleaming geldings (castrated male horses), but to gallop through wildly on a stallion that would leave them all in shock. Incidentally, when this does happen with horses, and a wild one gallops tearingly through, all the ones that are penned up, tacked up, or being ridden, begin to neigh. I don’t speak horse very well, but I think what they are saying is, that looks like fucking fun! I didn’t care whether I would be judged as the most talented writer, or the most intelligent, or the most profound—instead I took it as my personal invictus to brighten up two and half hours of monotonous reading with a little bit of fucking fun. I use that word again, because that is exactly what I chose to write about. I abandoned all those poetic descriptions of the manicured lawns in front of my childhood homes, or the rocking love of my grandfather’s knee (of which they all wrote) and I wrote, about sex. For added shock, or laughter—whatever the effect as long as it was strong!—I wrote about bad sex.

And as far as my only intention was to get the biggest reaction, whatever it may have been, I fully succeeded. The professor soon learned to put my piece on the top of the pile to start the workshop off with a bang, and a bang it always was, complete with gasps, laughter and tears. I used every possible word “you’re not supposed to use” in a classroom, especially in front of a highly respected and even famous writer such as Luc Sante, and I let both my words and imagination go to infinity and beyond when it came to arranging them. (“You know the fingering is bad if it seems like he’s searching for the last olive in a jar”). I so poeticized and exaggerated and vulgarized my rather sad and uneventful sex life that I even managed to earn myself a reputation as a bit of a whore. A whore that was impossible to please, no less. But considering I knew this was far from the truth, I didn’t mind donning the textual wig and knee-high boots to play the prostitute. After all, a prostitute in a room full of “ladies,” like a wild stallion in a field of dressed ponies, is the one who gets the attention.

Even though the title of my blog may suggest otherwise, I think I have since managed to rid myself of that reputation. But I have also since learned a lot about writing, and begun to think that a “whorish” reputation may be the only, if not the best one, a writer can have. For what else is writing but a textual form of prostitution? How different really, is the writer from the prostitute—the prostitute who offers her naked body up to the stranger—when the writer bears his soul? What else is a good writer but a lowly laborer who knows his audience all too well, and only aims to please? And how else to judge the best writer, if not as the one whose readers keep coming back? When that class ended, and I asked Luc to sign a copy of his book for me, he wrote something along the lines of “You have been a pleasure to teach and I look forward to seeing your sexcapades turn into a book.” It was in that moment that I first began to think about a career in writing, and in that same moment that I came to terms with being a “prostitute.” I realized then and there, that if Luc had foreseen my success because I had let go, because I had spread my sex life like butter on that classroom table, then the only way to rise to that success would be to continue doing so. If I was going to be a writer I would have to kiss my secrets goodbye, and to remember that if I ever found myself in a panic about doing so, only three words would save me: Osa donsa maningi.

But those three priceless words do indeed come with a price. When you have bad sex, you’re pretty much on your own; the other person usually doesn’t know (or care) that its bad—that is why it is bad. So when it comes to telling the story—its all yours to tell. As is a prostitute with her body, you are entitled to freely “whore it out” and share it with whomever you wish—because that story is only yours to share. When it comes to good sex however, what’s good about it is that you’re both there—allow me that writerly cliché—you’re on the same page. So if you tell the story, you are not only telling your story but inevitably, somebody else’s too. To return to the horses for a moment, I should add, that the only time one might question letting a horse go is when you are not alone but in a group. For when one goes, they all do. And while you may be trusting or fearless enough to let yours go, those behind you may not. So it is with stories, for they, like horses, don’t always travel alone. In fact, it turns out, like good sex, good stories—or the best stories—are often the ones that are shared. And what I didn’t realize that day I so willingly decided on a career that depended upon a prostitution of my soul, is that I would one day have to tell a story that whored out somebody else’s too. So to all those of you who have shared your lives with me, or joined me for the ride, I am both grateful and sorry—incredibly sorry, for the moment you appear in a blog or a book, you too, become whores. That said, I cant help but laugh a little evil laugh, for with all of you as my harem, I think this means that I have finally graduated from that class—that I, am now, a P.I.M.P. And as your pimp I only have one soft and gentle request—please, if I choose to whore out our stories, for my sake, and for yours (as you are my readers too!); osa donsa maningi.

Thursday, 11 March 2010

harvard, scrabble and golf; some unlikely thoughts on knowing, or writing, it all...

Absence makes the heart grow fonder, and the blogs grow longer.

For Alice, for my brother, and for all those of you who have been impatiently waiting…

A friend of mine got into Harvard today, and although this has little or nothing to do with what I’m about to write, I thought I’d start here. Its not everyday that someone you know gets accepted to Harvard, its hardly everyday you meet someone who went there, so I figured it was worth a mention. (Besides, its not just any friend—after my mother, dear Alice was the first person to become a follower of this blog, so as far as the girl with the pearl necklace is concerned, this friend is very worthy of mention). Whenever I think of Harvard, besides reminiscing about the one beautiful autumn afternoon I spent walking around it, I am always reminded of the first time I met someone who had graduated from there. I can’t remember exactly what she said she had studied, I think it was “computer-related,” although I’m certain it had a much sexier title than that. So, partly because I had no idea what that was, and partly because of Harvard’s boundlessly glorious reputation, I said what anybody else would say, “Damn”—the two-syllable, not one-syllable, damn. And as we got to talking, I realized she had gotten that response many, many, times before. “That’s the problem with Harvard,” she said, “if people don’t immediately assume you studied law just because of its famous law school, they still, often times, assume you know everything.” True that. People who aren’t acquainted with the American collegiate system beyond the reputation Hollywood films create for it think of Harvard, (and its infamous ivy competitor Yale), as giant universities of omniscience. So basically, if you graduate with a PhD from either of them, your title is not merely “Doctor,” but God. (Good luck Alice, a tough destiny awaits, and a progeny of fools).

But besides Alice, there is another reason I bring this up. Even though I went to Bard—the opposite of Harvard if there ever was one, the school nobody has ever heard of unless they are of that rare species of Steely Dan fans, that’ll be the day I go back to Annandale, tralalalala—from the moment I began studying literature, people assumed I knew everything about it, that I had read every book, heard of every author, could list the Nobel Prize Laureates and Pulitzer Prize Winners in reverse alphabetical order. I imagine it’s the same with most fields—we like to assume that lawyers know every law, and mathematicians every formula, but the truth is, most of us, if we ever became good at something, did so through narrow specializations, and have long forgotten the first-year survey classes where everything was taught. My undergraduate education in literature was a maddening example of this, for it began and ended in Don Quixote. At my dissertation board, my advisors and professors said, “we don’t give out As easily, so go and get yourself a big bottle of champagne and celebrate. And please, for god’s sake, read another book.”

Of course, in my three years there I did read many other books, and many parts of many books, and much criticism—I could, and can still, talk about French, German, Russian and Hispanic literature at length. Thanks to film and theatre, I am also acquainted with hundreds of other books, even though I may not have necessarily read them—a luxury not allowed to the mathematician, who would be extremely lucky if formulae came in silver screen format. So I can often blunder or cheaply name-drop my way through a conversation on literature, but all of this still doesn’t make me an omniscient man of letters. I am helplessly reminded of one unforgettable and unforgiveable blunder I made, when in an interesting conversation on reading classics with someone I had just met, I knocked down one of the hurdles and found myself lying face down on the track, unable and unwilling to move or get up. I was referencing my sturdy Don Quixote as my classic that I read and go back to all too often because it is my bible, and he gave the example of so-and-so who allegedly read Vanity Fair every year for the same reason. Isn’t Vanity Fair a monthly publication was the first thought that came into my head, but instead I chose the second one and said, “hmmm, it must have been a very different magazine back then.” Crash! Boom! Pow! “No,” he gently replied, though I saw a monstrous wave of shock and disappointment wash over his face, “Vanity Fair…the novel…William Thackeray?” “Ah, Thackeray,” was all I could muster, but in my head I was going, Fuckeray Fuckeray Fuckeray! You bloody moron! You should know that. I have since thoroughly researched the book, and fully intend on reading it one day. Or once a year. As a punishing reminder for the whiplashing knock my vanity fairly took that day. Turns out you can learn from not reading a book too: when in doubt, nod and smile, don’t speak. Or go for the raised eyebrows and the all-responsive, “Ahhh.” Anything, anything at all, just leave the glossies out of it!

Anyway, conversations on literature are still an occupation of the idle, it is when it comes to writing that things turn laborious, and the assumed omniscience, truly murderous. Besides the fact that I receive phone calls at the most inopportune times from friends asking me how to spell a word, and of course the saddening truth that no one will ever agree to play Scrabble with me (!), I have, since the day I began writing, become a professional ghost-writer, editor, and translator for all who know me. I have written poems for baby showers, essays on experimental film (I know, huh!?), and worst of all, countless, countless! job applications, cover letters and CVs. Secret number one: I don’t think I have ever played Scrabble, and I really have no idea if I would be any good at it. Secret number two: Its not only that I absolutely hate it and have better things to do like pick my nose, I really don’t know a thing about writing CVs! Secret number three: Perhaps you should ask someone who has a fantastic job to do it. Duh. My job experience track record—like my Thackeray one—is hardly stellar. I am certain my breasts can take more credit for any of the jobs I’ve had than my pitiful excuse for a CV. Dear Friends, I am incredibly flattered by your numerous requests, but a flair for writing doth not a winning CV make. And though my breasts may be, my shoulders are not big enough to bear the burden of responsibility this entails! I wouldn’t be able to read you not getting the job as anything other than my fault. Can I write a poem about your work experience instead? I can do it in iambic pentameter…or in rhyme! To whom it may concern, I may not be clever, I may not be quick, but where experience fails me, my tongue does the trick! Kind regards. [P.S. Congratulations (and thank you!) Alice, for doing it all without me!]

All this said, or moaned, however, every once in a while, what you get asked to write is something you’re actually capable of, and more importantly, something that is fun. Perhaps it’s a book on flirting, perhaps a foreword on golf. Unlike the flirting, which so obviously and invitingly reeks of fun, I didn’t, at first, imagine the golf would be. Surrounded as I am, and have always been, by golfers, I am a little bit ashamed to say that I have never really gotten it. I like to release from a long day of writing by going for a walk. How on earth (and where on earth?) does one go to release from a long day of walking? So, just as my brother doesn’t get my sport of choice because he doesn’t believe in riding any “damn thing that doesn’t have a steering wheel or brakes!” so I never understood the chasing of a little white ball over fields of green. Though, as he is a good sport and often bestows with me with the rolling-on-the-floor entertainment that is seeing him on a horse, so I return the willingness to occasionally give his game a go. My talent for getting the ball into the hole or even off the ground is shaky, flukish at best, and by the time I have managed to actually control what is happening instead of leave it to chance, I am likely to be achy, tired and bored. I am obviously tempted by the threatening lack of control that getting on a horse proffers, while he is intoxicated by the rigorous prostitution of control that golf requires. So, in this regard, as in many others, we differ.

When it comes to writing and not riding however, I didn’t think we were that different. In fact, for a long time, while we were growing up, I steered clear of writing altogether because it was so clearly his talent, perhaps destiny, and I no less wanted to stand in his shadow than I did to step on his toes. He was the one who won a writing competition at university, not me. But perhaps that is indirectly related to his profession—I never had the balls to enter. So I was rather surprised when he solicited my help, and even more surprised to learn that he really needed it. Being one of the only, and so most famous Serbian golfers, he was invited to write a preface for the first Serbian book about golf. Having procrastinated for months, or been too busy hitting balls to give words a go, he hastily scribbled down something in five minutes and then emailed it over to me with a couple of lines to the effect of “please fix this.” Without diminishing his talent too much—that writing talent I’m sure still lies somewhere in his closet with his old golf clubs—because he hastily scribbled it down without a care in the world for how it would sound, the piece was rather bland, atrocious, unfixable. And this wasn’t only the opinion of a snobby writer and her vanity, fair; my parents, with their architectural eye and their love and appreciation of both their son and his game, wholeheartedly agreed. So I took to rewriting it. Here is an excerpt of what I wrote:

Many things have been written about golf. Mark Twain famously called it “a good walk spoiled.” Arthur Daley compared it to a love affair, saying “if you don’t take it seriously, it’s no fun; if you do, it breaks your heart.” Gardner Dickinson said, “They say golf is like life, but don’t believe them—it is more complicated than that.” Truth is, I have been playing golf for twelve years, professionally for three, and I am somewhat at a loss for words when asked to write about it. It has been, and is, all of those things to me—it is my life, my love affair, and often times, a good walk spoiled, but spoiled, complicated, or heartbreaking though it gets, I always go back for more. It is my calling, my passion, my religion.

The game of golf requires an incredible amount of athletic ability, a ruthlessly exacting precision, and perhaps most importantly, that dearest of friends, and foes, luck. With this tall order of demands, it becomes more than just a game played out on fields of green, more than just a sport—it becomes a play, a tragedy, comedy and romance all at once, set entirely upon the stage that is the mind. Each round is its own epic odyssey, each hole, the promise of a homecoming. I have chased a little white ball all over the world, wedged it out of sand, slid it over ice, propelled it through skies sunny and grey; I have laughed, cried and cursed, and collected trophies and medals of all sizes and shapes, all the while bearing the Serbian flag. No matter how much money I earn from a tournament, or sometimes lose, in the face of all the expenses this prestigious indulgence incurs, no matter where my name may appear on a leaderboard, I am always won over by a vigorous honor and pride when I see the little red, white and blue flag that appears next to it.

I may have spent a little over his five minutes on it, but it seemed to have been written in an instant—a graceful, effortless, hole in one. Though I was riding on the quotes of others and banking on my imagination to fill in the blanks, I became for a moment a true ghostwriter (or ghost golfer?), I climbed into his body, embodied his game, and then put it down on paper. I was almost getting all choked up reminiscing about my trophies, my medals, my flag. And then I stepped back into my trophy-less, medal-less, flag-less body and realized that for the first time in my life, and his golfing career, I felt like I got it. Writing that piece hadn’t felt like writing at all, it had felt like an intoxicating, epic, perfect round of golf. And then I realized that writing—my calling, passion and religion, although I would never use these words to describe it—isn’t that different from his. While he chases a little white ball over fields of green, what I do all day is chase a little black word over pages of white. My tee-off time is the moment my inspiration hits me, my driver that very inspiration. The way each of his fairways leads him to a green, each of my words seemed to lead me on—play led to epic to odyssey to homecoming, and before I knew it, I was home. In the little black hole, or dot, that is a fullstop. Of course, it isn’t always this easy. Writing can be as blood-boilingly frustrating as golf—words, too, find their way into the rough. (And broken keyboards are almost as costly to repair as broken clubs). It may not require an athletic ability (though research does sometimes get more active than googling), but it most certainly is played out in the mind, and if and when that mind gets too active, it can also turn a good walk, spoiled. And so, having finished with his career, and a long day of my work, during my walk today, I got to thinking about my own. Writing about golf was a breeze, but what would I write about writing? If “calling, passion, and religion,” weren’t the words I would use to describe it, what were?

I’ll begin as I did with the golf and consider the words “good walk spoiled.” Nietzsche once wrote “all truly great thoughts are conceived by walking,” and though I’m not certain I have yet stumbled on any truly great ones, my best ones have always been born in walking. Something about the pace of walking so perfectly befits the pace of a sentence. Gustave Flaubert, the famous French novelist, (a contemporary of Thackeray, perhaps? I don’t know! Shh!) used to pace up and down the tree-lined avenue in front of his house screaming sentences he had written out loud until he was convinced they sounded right. His entire life was arguably one maddening quest for le mot juste—the right word—and again, I’m not entirely sure (this would require some research), but I think he ultimately died of this. So, truly great thoughts or right words though they may be, the walks in which they are conceived are hardly of such blessed fortune—they are screamingly maddening, punctuatingly frustrating, and in the worst of extremes, murderous. “Spoiled” is but a euphemism.

Just as my brother often says to people, a career in golf is not that blissful Sunday afternoon walk that the hobby of golf is, I often say, though it seems to you that I’m ambling aimlessly around a city, or window-shopping, I am actually thinking, working, writing. I don’t really care to justify my window-shopping, and I most certainly couldn’t ever convince someone to pay me for this “work,”—that’s just the way it is. Something, somewhere, somehow has put a word, or a sentence in my head, and I will carry on walking for as long as it takes to make it as polished and neatly manicured as a golf course green. And then I will run—run to my laptop at home to begin hastily typing away, or in real emergencies to a bookshop for a pencil and paper, or to a waiter for a napkin and a pen. I know, I know, technically as a writer, I’m supposed to always carry one, or all, of these items around, but not all professions are lucky enough to be endowed with a caddy. And while a trained caddy may find my laptop, pen and notebook a feathery weight in comparison to a bag full of irons, I am not certain he could bear the weight of those thoughts.

Writers are not people who are gifted with words, they are people who are burdened by them, by what they mean, by the way they sound, and sometimes, as in the case of the post-modern language poets, even by the way they look. The imagination is not just a flowery and creative tool—it is a demon that attaches a word, or sentence, to any and every observation, plants the seed of its ceaseless rumination deep inside you, and then sits back and laughs wickedly while it watches this seed fester, grow and consume you. And so the only ritualistic cleansing of this demon available to the writer becomes to crucify him on paper and viciously suffocate him in black ink. It turns out writing CVs is hardly any different to writing anything else—it is something you have to do, except that the writer doesn’t do it with the hope of gaining something, but precisely with the hope of losing it, of ridding himself of those torturous words, of exorcising thought. So writing is far from my calling, passion or religion; it is my madness, my anguish, my pain—both my tormenting burden and its bright-shining exodus. It is not a gift I have been given, but a punishment, and I can either live with it…or choose to write (or drive), it out.

It is an unsolved mystery as to who exactly, but Miles Davis, or Elvis Costello, or maybe even Gertrude Stein, once wrote “writing about music is like dancing about architecture.” Although there is some complex 2D/3D/4D (anyone form Harvard around?) way to describe this, I think the basic message here is that architecture is too complex or at least too strangely other to dance, for the latter to be able to say anything of value about the former, and through the comparison, the same goes for music and writing—words just don’t seem to be good enough to express it. Funny that. I have carried this quote around in my pocket for years and it never before occurred to me that it slates two of my favorite things—dance, which I used to dream of a career in, (until an untimely though graceful knee dislocation in a ballet class closed the curtain on that), and writing, which I now dream of, or am beginning a career in. It is not exactly clear to me how one became the other, but at least this quote, in its reprimanding of both, seems to imply there is a connection. And as I have been making unlikely connections all through this piece, I will make one more in conclusion as I say I heartily disagree. I believe you can write about music, and dance about architecture, and even get into Harvard without a ghost-writer! Perhaps what we all need is not a ghost-writer but a ghost-golfer, not someone to give us the words, but the drive to reach these green feats…for all it really takes is…having the balls.

Thursday, 21 January 2010

the rain in spain falls mainly on the plain; thoughts on rain, words and other things...

It rained all afternoon today and I couldn’t help but think about…well, rain. Hang on, that’s not entirely true. What I actually couldn’t help but think about was the sunnier prospect of a charming man to roll around in bed with all afternoon while it poured down outside…but I soon realised it would be considerably less disheartening to just stare out the window and watch the rain fall. I am not a big fan of the rain. Never have been. And I think I know exactly when rain and I had our falling out. I was about 8 years old and on my second trip to EuroDisney Paris. Middle of July, just like the first time, raining, just like the first time. Look, raining on my parade is one thing, but raining on Mickey Mouse’s parade should just not be allowed. I am surprised that beside all the other things the fascist corporation of Disney manage to control (did you know that crying children get taken aside and cheered up in secret so as not to upset the grand happy scheme of things?), they haven’t yet figured out a way to control the weather! That said, fascist though they may be, as my all-too-liberal and all-too-rigorous education has taught me…deep down, at my sentimental and uncultivated core, I am wholly, and supercalifragilistically, a Disney fan. (The fan in me looks at that remark and wonders, why the hell would you cry at Disney anyway? Stupid kid.)

I, of course, didn’t cry, but the thought that all two hundred odd photographs in which those magical trips are memorialised depict me in a giant yellow shapeless poncho of a raincoat (Disney), does often bring me to the verge of tears. So not only did Disney inspire in me a loathing for rain, but for raincoats and all of rain’s other unflattering accoutrements. Which is odd, because, years later I chose to move to London—a city where rain is as much of a landmark as Big Ben. And its not like I didn’t know it was rainy. One of my favourite childhood books was Paddington Bear—not for its content so much as for the fact that somebody had bought it for me from abroad!—and guess what he’s wearing on the cover? A raincoat. Need I add it is yellow? Granted, Paddington Bear’s one is a tad more stylish than Disney’s tent-like contraption, but a raincoat nonetheless. But my dad put an end to all my hesitations by saying, “honey, if the rain gets you down just get one of those cheap flights and go to Spain for the weekend!” Nice dad, huh.

Except, it didn’t really work out like that. I have lived in London for over a year and I still haven’t been to Spain. The only weekend trip I made was to Portugal and that was for a wedding, not for ridding myself of the rainy blues. And the moment I got off that Ryan Air flight I vowed never to take one again. Yes, if there’s one thing I dislike more than rain its Ryan Air. I’m sorry, but sitting on a plane while two moron air stewards ceaselessly yap away in that sickening advertising lingo is not my idea of a holiday. And returning from that holiday at 2am to find yourself in rainy—no, not London—Stansted! is no less than the perfect way to make you forget you went on holiday in the first place. So, no thank you. I’m not even convinced it works out any cheaper after they make you pay extra for everything short of the safety belt. But, besides my loathing for RyanAir, the other reason I didn’t ever take that weekend trip to Spain is that the rain in London never really got to me.

Which is to say, if, as the song goes, “the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain,” the rain in London doesn’t really fall at all. Like the word itself, the whole affair is rather uneventful, rather blah. A constant r-r-rambling drizzle, not even enough to make it go poetically pit-pat on the roof, or to really get you wet. What was most disappointing was that I invested in a snazzy pair of Burberry wellies, and the most adorable (but, to be fair, rather useless and inconvenient) Burberry poncho—the first, last and only two pieces of clothing I could ever convince my father I really needed—and it turned out I never really needed them at all. (Yes, I know they didn’t really need to be Burberry, but let’s not get all fascist and hasty with the n word; I was, after all, still suffering from post-traumatic-Disney-raincoat-stress-disorder). The one and only morning I put the wellies on because I deemed it wet and miserable enough outside to warrant my serious concern for all my other shoes, I found myself sitting outside a café at noon, in the sun, feeling like an absolute ninny because everyone else was wearing flip-flops. So much for early bird gets the worm. Early bird gets misjudged weather forecast and irredeemable fashion faux-pas. Well, that and a new pair of ballerina flats. What? I had to. If the show must go on, the pas-de-moi will not go on, under the sun, in wellies.

What’s more, as I walked out of the shop in my new leopard-print darlings, I realised I had forgotten my umbrella. Forgotten? Yeah whatever, read it as you wish, purposefully, or not, consciously or sub-, it was gone. And I decided I didn’t really need one. The only function my umbrella ever served was the threatening one of poking pedestrians’ eyes out. Really, I think its time someone came up with a more metropolitan-friendly version of the umbrella.  Instead of focusing on those “smoke-less” cigarettes the RyanAir stewards are forced to sell, inventors and techno-geeks should really be thinking about poke-less umbrellas. I mean, I have my doubts about technology, but the smoke-less cigarette really made me question the intelligence of this age. If it wasn’t smoke we were after, I’m quite certain we’d all be happy sucking on a q-tip, no? But, to get back to rain, q-tip or cigarette, you could smoke an entire one in London without the rain getting it wet enough to put it out. I had gotten so used to rain in London that I stopped using it as an excuse for not going out, and would even willingly go for a walk in the park if it was raining. No, not raining, drizzling. But then it began drizzling snow, and aided by threats of the BA strike to make a hasty decision to go home, I flew back to Zambia (thankfully, RyanAir doesn’t fly there), and I was suddenly reminded what rain was all about.

The chinyanja (one of the main Zambian dialects) word for rain is mvula. How much more performative, more sonorous, more orchestral, just the word itself is. The murmur of the m is like the overture of the gathering, often momentary, of those ominous grey and black clouds, conspiring through their quiet humming for the colossal crash that is about to ensue…the jarring of the m and the v that rolls off the tongue and through the teeth and lips like thunder itself, followed by the orgasmic outpouring of the heavens in that seemingly endless and moaning u, which releases into a lulling and winged l as the pouring, and pitter-pattering get lighter and float into the a, as open and clear and bright as the skies once again become. And even after the curtain has fallen and the entire universe seems to have taken its bow, the memory of the symphony lingers in the silent harmony of the air, with gentle echoes of the applause as it were, all brought to sensuous fruition in what can be described as nothing other than the wondrously spiritual smell of the ozone.

And after a whole afternoon of lying on my bed, alone, watching and listening to this epic concerto, and toying with the word mvula on my tongue, I couldn’t help but fall in love with the rain. I was reminded of a blissful time and place and feeling, before Disney, before London, before RyanAir, of the purity, the simplicity, the thunderous innocence of my childhood. I would give up all the Mickey Mouse parades and weekends in Spain and Burberry accessories for a subscription to an eternity of afternoons such as this…afternoons that give you the perfect excuse to cancel your plans or “take a raincheck” as they say…not because you’ll get wet…but so you can stay home and dance in the rain. And just as I had danced myself to soppy, sentimental reverie and begun typing away…the electricity went out. Turns out, in Zambia, as anywhere else, you can’t have your cake and eat it. See why a fair lady needs a charming man to roll around in bed with?

Sunday, 3 January 2010

MaID in Zambia.

I think my first roommate in college suffered as much of a culture shock from rooming with me as I did moving to New York. On what must have been my second or third Monday there, having had a good few weeks to suss each others patterns out, she asked me, “Dude, why the hell do you get up before class on Monday to do your laundry and then leave it all in that neat, ironed, folded, colour-coordinated pile on your perfectly made bed, and why on earth do you make your bed everyday?”

“Well, “ I began, “I do my laundry early on Monday mornings because that’s the only time there is no one else in the laundry room and I can use all the machines….”

“Erm,” she interrupted, “why do you need all the machines?”

Was this a trick question? “So I can do one white load, one dark, and one colour…?”

“You do realize that costs you three times more than just putting it all into one machine, don’t you?”

“Yes, dear, I can do the math, but a new white Ralph Lauren shirt would cost me a lot more than a few quarters if I had to replace the one that the mixed load had tinted pink.” She stared at me with a blank face. So I continued with my explanation, “…and I make my bed everyday and put the laundry on it in that pile because at home my maid did that for me every day, and I’m just used to having it like that. I couldn’t bear to come home to an unmade bed. And seeing as she’s not here to do it for me, I do it.”

Dude. You have a maid?!”

Yes dude. “Two, actually.”

“Woooooah.” That was the end of that conversation and more or less the end of my making any new friends. News travelled pretty quickly and from that day onward I became known as the rich, snobby, stuck-up Zambian princess….so much so, that a few years later, somebody randomly walked up to me on campus and said, “Sorry to ask you this, but are you, like, really, like, the princess of Zambia (like)?” Erm, no. Dufus.

I spent a lot of time at college trying to justify, explain or just understand where I came from. It’s quite normal to have a maid in Zambia—I don’t know anyone who doesn’t. And I’m not talking about a Pole or Puertoriqueña who comes in once a week for three hours to do a mediocre sweep-mop-flush of a job that will earn her £40, as we have in London. I mean full-time, seven days a week, hands’n’knees scrubbing, ironing and chopping vegetables maid. And they probably get paid about as much as a Polish maid in London could make in a day—monthly! Its normal. But try explaining that to a bunch of ultra-left-wing, pot-smoking, ‘we-are-the-people’ people who don’t even drink Starbucks coffee because, oh lord knows why, somebody somewhere in the coffee picking labour chain didn’t get enough pats on the back. It took me a long time to understand, and then to accept, that things were relative…a long time to earn a measure of perspective. And perhaps all too ironically, I have two people to thank for that—my maids. For just as my roommate had her “Dude!” moments on that side of the ocean, my maids have their own almost everyday on the other side.

One day, having found me in my room when she came in to put that neatly stacked pile of laundry on my bed, she carefully picked out a piece of my underwear, held it up under the light like a lab specimen of guinness-book-worth-curiosity and said, “Madam, what is this?” Uh-oh. The word “thong” was too generous a title for the item she had in her hand, even “g-string” bordered on the euphemistic, that little number was just a string.

“Its underwear Agnes…panties,” I responded, knowing exactly what was coming next.

“But how do you wear this?” she said turning it around like it was a Rubik’s cube. Fearing that any attempt at explanation would only further entangle her confusion, I just put it on over my clothes and in a ta-da! tone said, “Like this!” Noticing the even more bemused look on her face, I glanced down just to make sure I had put it on right (you never know), which I had, but I suddenly realized what her next question was going to be for in that moment it formed in my mind too. “What the bloody hell is the point of that!?” To put a simple end to the conversation, I just said, “well when you wear underwear like this under trousers or a skirt then you don’t see the lines from the underwear.” To which she only had one response:

“Crazy mzungus.” (Crazy white people). I don’t think I’ve worn a g-string since. I either go seamless or commando, but I’d hang myself on that string before I ever put it in between my bum-cheeks again. Thank heavens. And Agnes.

Pelina, the other maid, who works mostly in the kitchen and is spared from the quantum physics of figuring out crazy white people’s laundry, has a whole different set of questions. Upon noticing a photograph of a sculpture from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York one afternoon, she said, “Madam, what’s this?” with a rather cheeky grin.

“A sculpture,” I responded, not quite getting the joke, adding, “you know, like the independence sculpture in front of the supreme court?” to give her a local point of reference.

“Ahhh, yes! Like a piece of art?”

“Exactly!” I exclaimed, rather impressed, and thinking the Q&A duly accomplished.

“But, eh, Madam…” she then pressed, as the cheeky grin turned into a light giggle, “why is it naked?” I couldn’t help but laugh. We sweetly laughed together like schoolchildren who had just encountered a pair of older students kissing in the playground. Though I am still searching for a way to answer this one…

A few days later, watching me as I put my hand in and out of a duck’s bum filling it with stuffing, she said, “Madam, are those your nails?”

“Yes,” I said, holding them up so that we could both admire my recently painted French manicure. She took one of them in her hand, and touched it with the wondrous gaze of a toddler fondling his mother’s colossal fingers for the first time.

“Sure, madam?” she asked again, in disbelief, “with this white tip?”

“Yes, Pelina, they are mine, but they are painted to look like this. Why, you don’t believe me?”

“No, madam, it’s just that us we buy nails like this from the market. Exactly the same.” So, its not only mzungus who are crazy. (Stuffing duck is an altogether different matter).

And the latest…my all-time favourite moment of perspective enlightening: Having put my iPhone down on the table as I reached to get something from the fridge, she looked at it in awe, and said, “Ahhhh, Blackberrrrrry,” with an enunciation that so piercingly revealed her pride in knowing its name. “iPhone” I gently corrected her. “Its your phone?” Erm, yes. It is indeed.

But as I walked away, I was suddenly reminded of those first few weeks at college again…when amongst millions of other things, I discovered that everyone, everyone, had an iPod. “Your whaaaaaaaaat?!” If only I could respond to that now! Whatever dude, yourPod, iPerspective.